Aggregates Machine Review: Fast and Foamy Cold Brew

But a word about oxygen. The device essentially pumps fresh air (79 percent nitrogen, 20 percent oxygen) into the coffee instead of the fuss with nitro cartridges. This is great, but exposure to oxygen is the known enemy of fresh coffee. After nitro evaporation, side-by-side taste tests showed more flabby oxidation flavors in the nitro compared to the base nitro.

But now that the device has been introduced recently, this does not appear as often. What you notice are pleasant, pleasant bubbles that also add noticeable sweetness. Those bubbles cover a lot of sins, building a thick head over the cold brew that looks for all the world like a well-poured Irish stout.

A WIRED editor, looking at a photo of Cumulus’ abundant nitro, cheerfully suspects fraud. “I swear they used Guinness in the promo shots,” he wrote.

The espresso is also sparkling – it has a thick, authentic crema, formed by the pressure exerted by the machine’s powerful compressor. It was the natural foam of the aggregate espresso that created a wonderfully foamy martini—a result that eluded me with hot, chilled espresso.

Solid advice from cocktail consultant and educator Josh Seaborg, from Virginia Typical citizen cocktailsfor a good espresso martini recipe to try these out. For the record, this includes 1.5 ounces of vodka, 0.75 ounces of a coffee liqueur such as Mr. Black, and 1/2 ounce of simple syrup mixed with 2 ounces of cold brew espresso. Mix, shake, pour. The machine only makes double shots, so one capsule provides enough cold espresso to make two cocktails.

Whose rubble?

On the one hand, the Aggregate is an impressive piece of engineering, succeeding on multiple fronts where other device makers have failed.

But it’s not a device for coffee lovers. It lends itself best to those who appreciate the convenience of the Keurig and aren’t overly fussy, or those who naturally load their cold brew with milk, sugar, or other flavors. The aggregate doubles with this Flavored syrup Ranging from Orange Piloncillo to Cinnamon Demerara.

Image: Aggregate